The Essential Microblade Guide: How to Choose the Right Blade.

The world of microblading is vast. And with thousands of different artists using a whole host of different techniques and tools, it can often be difficult to find your place in this ever-evolving industry.

Finding the right blade, in particular, can be a huge challenge for beginner microblading technicians. Microblades come in all different shapes, sizes, structures, and configurations. There are U-shaped blades, round blades, flat blades, thick blades, thin blades… and the list goes on.

Here at Cosmedic Supplies, we understand how important it is to find the perfect blade for your specific style. That is why we have created the Essential Microblade Guide. This handy guide studies a comprehensive range of different blades. It explores what each one does and how they can be used to fulfil your artistic needs.


Hard versus Flexi bases.

Before choosing what size or shape of blade you need, you must first decide the most suitable base for your tool. You have the choice of either a hard or flexi blade.  

Flexi blades are finished with a plastic base. This type of hand tool is great for beginners as they allow you to find the correct pressure without going to deep into the skin. Flexi blades are also best for clients with thin to average skin types.

Hard blades, however, feature a more robust aluminium base. Whilst hard blades are more efficient and easier to control, they are strong and more likely to cut the skin too deep if not used properly. Therefore, hard blades are more suitable for experienced artists.

Hard blades are more effective when used on average to thick skin. They are not suitable for thin, sensitive, or ageing skin.


Thin Versus Thick

One of the main factors you need to consider when choosing the correct blade is size. Microblades are available in a selection of diameter sizes, ranging from 0.15mm to 25mm. Knowing what size of blade you need relates to your client’s hair and skin types, as well as what style of hair stroke you are hoping to achieve.

Thicker needles will result in a thicker hair stroke. These needles are therefore suitable for clients with naturally thick brow hairs.

Thinner needles will create a thinner hair stroke. Thin needles are therefore best suitable for clients with naturally thin brow hairs.

The size of needle also depends on the thickness of your client’s skin. Look at the list below to learn more.   

A 25mm blade is one of the thickest blades available. This blade is perfect for creating thick hairstrokes and is best suited to clients with thick skin.

A 22m blade is still considered a good blade for creating more prominent hairstrokes. This blade is suitable for average skin.

A 20mm blade is used to create fine to medium hairstrokes. This blade is suitable for average skin.

An 18mm nano blade is the perfect tool for creating very thin, in-between strokes. This blade is suitable for thin skin.

The 0.15mm blade is one of the smallest diameter blades available to artists. It can be used to create the thinnest, finest hairstrokes possible. This blade is suitable for clients with thin, sensitive skin.



One of the most confusing aspects of choosing your perfect microblade is finding the right shape. There are so many different blade shapes and needle structures to choose from, and they all do different things.

The U-Shaped blade.

This blade is shaped like an arc, with the longest needles in the middle and the shortest at the ends. This shape of needle is best used for drawing curved strokes and filling the brow with a back and forward motion. The U-shaped blade is suitable for more experienced artists.

The Curved Blade.

The curved blade can be used to create curved strokes for a thick, fluffy brow. Artists can use the front and middle needles in isolation but cannot work with all blades at once.  

The Angled Blade.

This type of blade has a flat needle configuration that starts high and tapers to a point at one end. All needles touch the skin at once which makes it easier to control the depth at which you are working.

Small angle blade: these are ideal for touch ups and short strokes. The small angle blade is perfect for beginner artists.

Big angle blade: Blades with a bigger angle are perfect for outlining the brow and filling sparse areas with longer strokes.

The Flat Blade.

The flat shader blade is the essential tool for creating an ombre effect. The needle structure of the flat blade allows artists to draw straight, uniform hairstrokes that are perfect for shading the tail end of the brow.

The Round Blade.

The round shader blade is the perfect tool for advanced artists looking to add more depth and detail to their brow designs. The round shader blade is predominately used by artists who want to create soft, natural-looking brows with added dimension.

Choosing the right blade for you.

As you progress as a microblading artist, you will start to develop your own unique style and technique. The more you learn about your artistic needs, the easier it will be to find your perfect blade.

Our best piece of advice is to experiment with a whole range of different blades. This will help you find which ones best suit your way of working and, more importantly, which ones do not.

Finding the right blade for you will help to ensure consistently high-quality results. So, take your time, experiment as much as you can, and enjoy the process!


Here at Cosmedic Supplies, we sell a large range of high-quality microblades and microblading tools. Head over to our online shop to browse our collection of top-notch SPMU products.

Don’t believe the hype? Take a look at our Instagram to see the amazing results created using our tools.

Leave a comment

All comments are moderated before being published